The GameMaster's Poker
School
Lesson 6 - The Small Blind Bet
Another
mandatory bet in Hold 'em poker is the Small Blind (SB),
which is usually - but not always - half that of the Big
Blind (BB) bet. So, in the typical $10/$20 game
that we use as the "base" game in these lessons, the BB
bet would be $10 and the SB will be $5. This 50% "rule"
doesn't always apply, however. In a $3-$6 game for
example, the SB is often $1, not $1.50 and that
difference has considerable impact on playing your hand
from the SB position.
Obviously, the SB bet requires a lot more
thought than the BB bet, primarily because it costs you a
certain amount of $$$ to "complete" the bet, even in an
unraised pot. As you learned in lesson 5, the primary decision
to be made when playing in the Big Blind is how to deal with a
raise, while the easiest decision to make in the BB is to
check. In the SB position, the easiest decison is to
fold, but if you do that too often it'll end up
costing you a lot of $$$. So we have to find a balance point
that defines when we fold or complete the SB. I don't want to
imply that we'll never raise or reraise out of the SB because
there are times when that's the proper play, but 90% of the
time our decision will be to either fold or complete. Often the
decision to fold is made because the bet's been raised, but
there will be times when we'll fold simply because the cards we
have don't warrant any further investment.
Proper play from the Small Blind is
complicated by the fact that if you decide to complete the bet
and stay in the game, you're still vulnerable to a raise from
the BB player, plus you'll be the first player to act on the
next round of betting. Every round of play is
different, of course, but you could easily find yourself
completing the SB in an unraised pot and then the player in the
BB raises. If all the others still in just call, you must now
make a full-size bet to stick with the hand and it's against
someone who has raised in early position. That usually
indicates a very strong hand or it's a bluff by someone who
wants to win the pot without a showdown, although that doesn't
usually happen in limit games. Let's say you're in the SB of a
$10/$20 game, so your investment is $5 and you decide to
complete the bet with another $5 and then the BB raises. The
bet is going to come around to you at $10, assuming no other
player re-raises the BB (not likely if they didn't raise the
first time around, but not impossible, either), so now what do
you do? As you may have guessed, the mathematics of the
situation hold the answer to this dilemma.
Betting the SB isn't as cut-and-dried as
betting the Big Blind because your initial investment is
obviously smaller and a lot more depends upon the "texture" of
the game. I don't like discussing stuff like "texture" because
it's subjective in nature, but there's no getting around it in
poker, so let's just deal with it. The game you're in
may be "loose", in the sense that 50% or more of the players
are seeing the flop, even when the bet's been raised. That's
not the only definition of a "loose" game, but I think you get
the idea. (By the way, don't get the words "loose" and "lose"
confused, as do so many people on the 'Net. The word "lose"
means to not win, such as, "I always lose when I play the
slots." The word "loose" means not tight, like "The lugnut on
that wheel is loose." With me? The English lesson is over.)
Anyway, a loose game will typically see a lot of preflop raises
(and calls), which can be a profitable situation for the wise
player who plays good hands, whether from the blinds or
not.
But when it comes to playing in a loose game
from the Small Blind, you often have to decide if you're
defending your blind from someone who's trying to "steal" it or
from someone who's playing a real hand or even someone who's
just throwing their $$$ away. And that's just a loose
game. If the game you're in is "tight" or if the pot has been
raised by a player who seldom bets any opening hand, it's
another matter entirely, of course. In a loose game with a lot
of callers, you must pretty well figure that it'll take "the
nuts" to win, but if you're up against just one other player,
top pair will often do the trick. See what I mean about
"texture"? I could go on and on about this, but what it really
boils down to is that a single, set-in-stone strategy for
playing the Small Blind bet isn't really feasible. You'll have
to make some adjustments "on the fly", so to speak, but I can
at least give you a good, solid starting
point.
Just as I did for the Big Blind bet, I've
created a chart that will eventually form part of my Hold 'em
Poker Basic Strategy Matrix. You'll see that the chart is
divided into three categories: hands that can raise and/or
reraise, hands that can call any number of raises, but
not reraise and hands where you should just complete the blind.
If a hand is not on this list, you should fold. An important
note here is that this chart is very conservative and you'll
appear to be some sort of "rock" if you use it all the time.
Should you find yourself in a loose game, you can safely loosen
up some yourself, particularly when you have a hand that's in
the "complete only" category. For example, I recommend that a
hand of Q-9o is about as low as you should go, but in a loose
game, a hand of Q-8o or even Q-7o is playable if the SB bet is
50% of the opening bet. If your SB bet is one-third of the
opening bet, then you should pretty much stick with what I show
in the chart and not loosen up at all.
As
always, each hand is "keyed" by the higher card and all I show
is the minimum hand, either suited or off-suit. Any hand that's
higher than the one I show is also playable within its
category, of course.
| Minimum
Small Blind Hands for Limit Hold 'em
Poker |
| Re-raise/
Raise |
Call
all raises |
Complete
only |
| A-A/
A-Ko, A-Qs |
A-2s,
A-Jo |
A-8o |
| K-K/
KQs |
K-2s,
K-10o |
K-8o |
| Q-Q** |
Q-8s,
Q-Jo |
Q-9o |
|
J-J,
J-7s |
J-8o |
|
10-10,10-8s |
10-9o |
|
9-9,
9-8s |
9-8o |
|
8-8 |
8-7o |
|
7-7 |
7-6o |
|
6-6 |
6-5s |
|
5-5 |
5-4s |
|
4-4 |
4-3s |
|
|
3-3 |
|
|
2-2 |
Notes
and comments:
If you
have a hand that's in the "complete only" category and the bet
is raised, you should fold. The real judgment call comes when
you complete such a hand and then the player in the Big Blind
raises; you're already committed to a full-sized bet and it's
difficult to fold at this point. Personally, I fold in that
situation only if my cards aren't a pair, aren't suited or both
aren't a 10 or higher. I'm still working on the math for this,
so be warned that my strategy in that particular situation is
just an educated guess at this point, but it seems to work
fine.
** The
hand of Q-Q in the Small Blind is played much like it is in the
Big Blind, sometimes you should reraise and sometimes you
shouldn't. While I hate to be that imprecise, all I can do is
blame it on the "texture", which I already pointed out is
subjective in nature. It would be a mistake to always reraise
out of the SB with pocket Queens, just as it would be a mistake
to never reraise with them. The best I can say is to reraise
with pocket Queens if the initial raise was from a player on or
near the button, or if it came from a "maniac" who raises a
lot, regardless of where s/he is sitting. If the pot hasn't
been raised by the time it's your bet, raising with Q-Q in the
Small Blind is the best move in a game with less than 5
players, especially if the BB is prone to
folding.
Homework
You're
getting off easy this time: just copy this chart and keep it
near you as you're playing. Also, if you're playing in
tournaments or considering it, be sure to read the articles I
did about poker tournaments that are on the GameMaster's
Secrets page here.
In the
next lesson we'll discuss playing pocket
pairs.
I'll see
you then.
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